lanes, or katras, that house one of the busiest markets in India. At first glimpse, Amritsar is like any small town in northern India, with bustling markets, haphazard traffic and congestion. But the Golden Temple is a serene presence, radiating a spiritual calmness that makes people bow their heads in reverence.
Men and women both need to keep their head covered while in the Gurdwara, so carry a scarf or handkerchief for the purpose. Also you have to enter a gurudwara barefoot- no socks allowed either! While in the Golden Temple complex walk on the mats provided or your feet will burn as the marble beneath tends to get very hot!
Historically Speaking
The seeds of the city were laid in 1577 when the fourth Sikh Guru Ram Das heard of a pool in the area that had healing powers. He instructed his son and successor Guru Arjan Dev to construct a temple at the site, which would be the focus of the Sikh religion. Guru Arjan Dev laid the foundations
of the city of Ramdaspur in 1588 and the temple complex was completed in 1601. The Mughal emperor Akbar is said to have donated the land around the temple after paying off the local Jat farmers. Arjan Dev, who had compiled the Adi Granth or holy text of the Sikhs, placed it in the temple precincts, which came to be known as the Harmandir (Temple of God). The guru then invited traders to settle around the temple complex. The Khatris and Aroras established their businesses and the town grew around its central nucleus. In the late 18th century, the town was plundered by Ahmad Shah Durrani, to be rebuilt by the first Sikh ruler of Punjab, Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The Maharaja also donated a 100 kilos of gold for the temple, which was added on to the surface as plating, and gave the temple its name. Over the centuries Amritsar has witnessed a bloody struggle for survival. The city was constantly faced with threats from both Muslim and Hindu rulers, and had to be fortified by Guru Hargobind. The Guru is said to have accepted only offerings of weapons from his disciples, which were used for defence of the temple town. When Salim, the younger son of Akbar took over, Arjan Dev was asked to convert to Islam as penance for his favours. The Guru refused, and was tortured and killed by Salim, who had then become the ruler, Emperor Jahangir. During India’s freedom struggle, Amritsar became the scene of one of the worst atrocities perpetrated by the British. Protests and demonstrations were being organised by people against the Rowlatt Act that allowed the British to imprison anybody without explanation. To suppress these protests, the Governor of the Punjab Province O’Dwyer imposed a ban on public assemblies. In defiance of this order, a group of men, women and children gathered in a rectangular piece of land, called Jallianwala Bagh, to mark the anniversary of the birth of the Khalsa panth (order of the Khalsa). General Dyer, who was charged to enforce law and order in the region, marched up to the ground with his troops and blocked the narrow entrance. He then opened fire on the gathering without any warning, killing and wounding thousands. Even today, the walls of the Jallianwala Bagh bear the bullet holes where people were mercilessly butchered. Some people even tried to escape the firing by jumping into a well in the complex, but drowned and died. The British tried to suppress this incident, but it created a furore in the entire nation. As a result, Mahatma Gandhi gave a call for Civil disobedience, which escalated to a mass movement and forced the British out of India. In the post-Independence period, the town once again saw a spate of bloody warfare, now between the Indian administration and Sikh militant groups. Sant Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale, a militant Sikh leader gave a call for separate nationhood, which spread like wildfire throughout the state. In June 1984, hounded by the army and police, a heavily armed Bhindranwale and his followers holed up in the Golden Temple complex. When troops tried to enter the complex, many were mowed down by bullets. The army, in a state of panic, rolled tanks into the complex and fired on the Akal Takht, the seat of Sikh religious authority. Bhindranwale was killed, and so were thousands of his men and soldiers. Though the temple was rebuilt and is now back to its original glory, the scars in the minds of the Sikh people remained. As a result of this operation, the Prime Minister Mrs. Indira Gandhi, who had ordered the army action, was assassinated by her own bodyguards. In retaliation, many Sikhs were butchered by Hindus. Again in 1987, the succeeding Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi ordered yet another campaign called Operation Black Thunder to cleanse the complex of militants. This time however, the action was more restrained, and damage kept to a minimum. Subsequently, elections were held and the people of Punjab voted in the religious Akali Dal. Normalcy returned to the state, with Amritsar regaining its status as one of the most important destinations for the Sikh community.
Shopping
The ladies will have a great time where shopping is concerned. From salwar suits to bangles and other trinkets, the bazaars of Amritsar have it all especially in the old city. The little shops opposite the Golden temple are full of interesting little trinkets. One can buy juttis, steel kadas and
even dry fruits here. The best woolens – shawls, sweaters and mufflers are available in Amritsar’s Hall bazaar. If you are looking for gold jewellery and sandalwood carvings head for Guru Bazaar – you are bound to get good bargains here. And of course you cannot leave Amritsar without buying some of the famous Amritsari papads and wadiyans.
Events
On the 13th of April every year Amritsaris celebrate Baisakhi with great gusto. On this day which denotes the advent of spring, the Khalsa panth was also founded by Guru Gobind Singh. It is joyous occasion and the people come out on the streets dressed in colorful clothes dancing the boisterous
bhangra.
Night Out
Finger licking food is available in Amritsar - from the proverbial Tandoori Chicken to the Chhole Kulchas on Maqbool Road and Amritsari Fish that is available at most of the dhabas sprinkled around the town. The Punjabi has a penchant for good food and it stands to reason that even the smallest
of dhabas here will serve you really tasty and good food, whether its aloo parathas or sweet dishes like Phirni. Try Chawla Chicken on Lawrence Road for their sumptous butter chicken and Kesar da Dhaba for traditional punjabi food as also thier phirni and lassi. For great vegetarian fare try the well known Bhrawa da Dhaba - you will not be disappointed. The good restaurants are all in the newer city areas to the north of the station. In the restaurants of the upmarket hotels you can also sample some Chinese cuisine in addition to continental dishes. There is not much scope for wild nights out in Amritsar! You could catch a movie if you are in the mood and there is a bowling alley that is also popular.
Sights
Amritsar was built around the Golden Temple and the Amrit Sarovar lake, from which it derives its name. The temple complex is surrounded by a fortified wall with eighteen gates. The main north entrance is under a Victorian clock tower. Known as the Darshani Deori, the entrance is up a flight
of steps and down again to the temple and holy tank. The Golden Temple sits on a rectangular platform in the centre of the Amrit Sarovar. It is surrounded by a white marble corridor, which is encircled by pilgrims visiting the shrine. A narrow causeway links the Harmandir, or Darbar Sahib as the temple is also called. The entrance to the temple is through an ornate archway with intricate inlay work. Verses from the Granth Sahib are inscribed on the doorway. The temple building is three storeys high. The lower storey is in white marble, while the two upper storeys have gold plating. The building is crowned with a dome shaped like an inverted lotus. With the first light of dawn, the reflection of the temple in the tank gives an ethereal atmosphere to the complex. As the sun shifts, the temple presents myriad views, each magnificent and captivating. The temple building has four entrances instead of the usual single entry. This is symbolic of the openness of Sikhism and indicates that followers of all faiths are allowed inside. The walls within are decorated with carved wooden panels and elaborate inlay work in silver and gold. The Adi Granth, compiled by Guru Arjan Dev, rests on a throne beneath a jewel-encrusted canopy. Priests conduct continuous recitation of verses from the holy book in 3-hour shifts. A complete reading of the text stakes 48 hours. The Akal Takht, next to the Golden Temple, is the seat of the Shiromani Gurudwara Prabandhak Committee, the religious governing body of the Sikhs. The building of the Akal Takht was begun by Guru Arjan Dev and completed in 1609 by Guru Hargobind. The Adi Granth is housed in the ground floor of the Akal Takht and is taken out in procession every morning to be placed at the Harmandir Sahib. Again at night, it is brought back to the Akal Takht. If you miss the early morning or evening processions, the palanquin that bears the Adi Granth can be seen in the treasury room on the first floor of the Akal Takht. The palanquin is set with precious stones and has silver poles and a gold canopy. Shrines on the northern edge of the corridor are venerated as the 68 holy shrines of the Hindus. According to the teachings of Guru Arjan Dev, it was enough for the devout to visit these shrines and not visit all the original Hindu shrines which are spread all over the country. Many of these shrines have now been converted into a martyr’s gallery showing the gruesome history of the Sikhs. Around the Parikrama, or pathway, are four rectangular cubicles where Granthis (priests) sit and recite the Granth Sahib. Pilgrims leave offerings at the steps, and can also get the holy book recited in their names for a donation. At the eastern end are two brick watchtowers called the Ramgarhia Minars, which were damaged during Operation Blue Star in 1984. The Guru-ka-langar or community canteen is a Sikh institution, which was started by Guru Amar Das in the 16th century. The practice of eating together encouraged shedding of inhibitions and the principle of equality. The community kitchen feeds up to 10,000 people in a day, free of charges. The Jubi tree, at the northwestern corner of the complex was planted some 450 year ago by the temple’s first head priest. The old, gnarled tree is believed to have special powers and childless women tie strips of cloth on it to be blessed with sons. Marriage deals are also fixed under the tree, though this practice is disapproved by the temple authorities. Two flagstaffs joined in the middle with the emblem of Guru Hargobind symbolise the dual aspects of Sikhism – religion and politics. Two swords of the emblem are enclosed in a circle with the inscription Ek Omkar (God is one). The Guru Ram Das and Guru Nanak hostels on one side of the complex offer free accommodation up to three nights for visitors. The old city, with the Golden Temple and surrounding bazaars along narrow alleys, is encircled by a ring road. Even today, the markets have an ambience of ancient times, when traders bought and sold goods right across from central Asia up to the farthest corners of India. Little light reaches down to the congested streets, which are best negotiated on foot. There are rows upon rows of shops on each street selling specifics goods. Guru Bazaar specialises in gold jewellery shops, while the Bazaar Kesarian is for steel and brass utensils. The smells of Katra Kathian announce its wares before you reach the shops selling papads, warian (crispies made from pulses) murabbas (Indian jams), pickles and ampapad (dried mango candies). The Mishri Bazaar is the place to buy dry fruits, while Katra Mohan Singh offers a colourful kaleidoscope of bridal glass bangles. Away from the bustling markets, is a spot that marks grim memories of India’s struggle for independence. The Jallianwala Bagh, about 400 metres north of the Golden Temple, is a small stretch of plain ground now converted into a park.Here, on 13th April, 1919 British troops led by General Dyer fired upon a group of assembled people, including women and children. The grounds are surrounded by high building walls on all sides, except a narrow access lane. A memorial plaque at the entrance recounts the history of the Jallianwala Bagh massacre. Inside, a martyrs’ memorial stands on the eastern end, while the well and bullet-ridden walls remain testimonials to the bloody massacre. Around the old city there are other important Gurudwaras (Sikh temples), like the Gurudwara Baba Atal Sahib, associated with the Sikh Gurus. Other shrines include the Hindu Durgiana Temple, a 16th century shrine dedicated to the divine couple Lakshmi and Narayan. To the northeast of the railway station is the Ram Bagh Gardens, with a museum housed in the palace built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The entrance to the garden is topped in red sandstone and inside is an interesting bathing tank constructed by a French General.
How to get there by AirThe Rajasansi airport, about 11 kms from town, is connected by domestic flights to Delhi and Chandigarh. You can get to town by a pre-booked rented car, taxis or auto-rickshaws. |
How to get there by RailAmritsar is connected by direct trains to major Indian cities like Delhi, Jammu, Mumbai, Nagpur, Calcutta and Puri. The most convenient train from Delhi is the Swarn Shatabdi which takes about 6 hours. |
How to get there by BusYou can drive into Amritsar from neighbouring states. Bus services also connect Amritsar with most north Indian towns, including Chandigarh (235 Kms), Delhi (450 Kms), Shimla, Kulu, Manali, Dharamshala and Dalhousie in Himachal Pradesh, Dehradun and Rishikesh in Uttar Pradesh and Jammu. |
Best time to VisitThe best time to visit Amritsar is between November and March when the weather is very pleasant. Summers get really hot and visitors need to acclimatize themselves to this dry and searing heat. |
Hotels in AmritsarAmritsar has several expensive and mid-range hotels. One can also stay in the Golden Temple Complex. The upmarket hotels are along the Mall Road and offer facilities like swimming pools and gyms. The newly opened Ista Hotel in Amritsar is a good option as is the Ritz hotel and the heritage property called Ranjit Svasa. In the heart of town a popular hotel in the upper category is Mohan International. |
What to Pack
For summer travel, light cottons are the best. In winter, woollens are required, especially at night. For a visit to the Gurudwaras, head covering is required. Simple scarves or handkerchiefs will suffice.Nearby Places
Wagah Border lies about 28 kms from Amritsar, is the border station of Atari and the Wagah checkpost between India and Pakistan. This is the only overland opening between the two countries, which continue to have hostile relations ever since independence in 1947. The checkpost has now become
a popular site for tourists, who come to see the change of guards and retreat of troops at sundown. The drill, choreographed with aggressive posturing and sabre-rattling, draws loud cheers from spectators on both sides. It is thrilling to see the energy with which both sides try to outdo the other - a not to be missed sight definitely! Taxis can be hired from Amritsar for the visit.
